Himalayan Hill + Jack =
The Year of the Draggin’
Laughter – not only is it great medicine indeed, but such a universal remedy!
I discovered that once again recently in India. There we were, eight of us after being served a sumptuous dinner, trying now to stay alert — or at least awake – at the sunset of a particularly grueling day, Tuesday, March 20. We had hiked five miles up (and I do mean UP!) a steep, tortuous hillside in the high-altitude Himalayan foothills to visit the Potong organic tea farm. The climb took us four hours in the blazing sun. Not a regular tourist stop, that’s for sure!
Our octet from the USA – many of us still strangers — had gathered in the Darjeeling area of West Bengal, guests of Equal Exchange (“Small Farmers, Big Change”), the Massachusetts-based, worker-owned co-op which supports small farmers throughout the world, selling fairly traded, organic coffee, tea, chocolate and snacks. My home church, the West Los Angeles United Methodist Church, has been a proud faith-based partner with Equal Exchange for many years, and I was the WLAUMC rep on this fact-finding adventure, which we promptly dubbed Tea 101.
Heading up our group was Deepak Khandelwal, Equal Exchange tea product manager, whose easy going personality, attention to detail, Indian heritage, fluency in the local language and passion for the cuisine made him our perfect guide! Our hosts that Tuesday evening were Prem Tamang and Binod Mohan, executives of Tea Promoters India (TPI), which manages six organic, fair trade tea gardens and assists the farmers with access to the world market and equitable prices for their product.
Both gents were extremely hospitable and gracious. Prem had made the trek up that now legendary hill with us and was still full of energy, possibly thinking that we Westerners were wimps! The night was younger than we felt, and we still had a Tea 101 presentation to be made by Prem and Binod. Hence the necessity for everyone to be alert. That, seriously, was no mean feat.
As tea was being served, I noticed our fearless leader, Deepak, fighting sleep, staring straight ahead, right through me and with somewhat glazed eyes. Perfect setup for one of my favorite pranks. Looking back at him, I sneered, “What are you lookin’ at?” Caught off guard, Deepak came to, trying to mumble something, but I chuckled and told him that I had just set him up with a fine opportunity to retort, “Nothing much!”
This really tickled the funny bones of our Indian hosts, who cracked up and promptly began practicing the routine with me. “Hey, Jack, what’re you looking at?” Over and over we took turns asking the question and answering, “Nothing much!” It worked every time and evoked much laughter each time. The silly routine was acted out morning, noon and night from then on, a running gag, especially between Prem and me, no matter where we found ourselves. That was how we bade adieu when we finally parted for the last time in Darjeeling, and it has been used in almost every email we’ve exchanged since!

Prem Tamang accepts special bookmarks that Jack brought from West Los Angeles United Methodist Church for students at Potong tea farm. Photo by Linda Elliott
The mirth that Tuesday evening served to revive us, and the humor broke some new ice, giving a bunch of former strangers a welcome opportunity to relax and get a little personal with each other. Prem told us his name meant “love” in both Hindi and Nepalese. I shared with the party that I was born in the Year of the Dragon, and that 2012 (a Dragon year) was kicking off in grand style.
Earlier that day (y’know, THE HIKE!), I myself found very little to laugh about. To be honest, I loathe hiking, okay? That activity has never been nor will it ever be on my bucket list. When we got out of our vehicles and Prem said we would be visiting the Potong Tea Farm now, I asked where the heck it was. Prem pointed high at the mountain before us and handed me a bamboo walking stick. Doomed! The trail was rocky, with steps improvised here and there in the steep curves, and a tree to grab once in a while. When I stumbled to my knees, chipping a thumbnail and drawing blood, I was (1) glad I’d gotten my tetanus shot, and (2) truly relieved that I didn’t scream like a girl, especially because the four women on the expedition were Olympic jocks compared to me!
Mercifully, some young kid carried my day pack for me, so all I had to deal with was a bottle of water and the mountain. BTW, I became very fond of that bamboo walking stick! To my credit, I didn’t whine much, mainly because I had to dole out every iota of my waning energy into…well, surviving! I was given the opportunity to just sit down in the dust and the heat of day and wait for everyone else to go up, then collect me on the descent, but that offer was really too humiliating to consider, so I breathed as easily as possible in the altitude and trudged on like a real trouper. It helped to convince myself that cameras were rolling, the sun was my key light, and I was just on another movie location, performing my own stunts like Jackie Chan. All the while, I was fervently praying: “Please, God, let me die so I won’t have to climb another step!” It felt like we were all in some intense National Geographic program and couldn’t get out of our contracts.
Okay, so after about an hour, my thighs felt locked permanently in place, a really wretched place. I looked up, which wasn’t a particularly smart move, since there was obviously an annoying bunch of hiking left in my immediate future. So I encouraged myself, thinking a successful ascent by this septuagenarian in such an obviously life-threatening situation would make a fine piece for AARP magazine someday.
By the third hour, in abject desperation, I plumbed my deepest spiritual resources to rally, worthy of a Dragon, cuz right about then, this Dragon was a-draggin’! With a gasp which I feared might just be my last, I thought: “Remember the kurta!!!” That did it! I knew then I would finish the climb: I had to if I wanted one of those handsome garments. Sure, a kurta might be everyday wear for men in India, but for me in Santa Monica, it would be a costume! I had to find a kurta. And I had to conquer this Himalayan hill if I were ever to shop again!
Finally, an eternity later, I began seeing the shimmering emerald of tea fields ahead and above, ever above…bushes pruned waist high to make it easier for harvesters (mostly women) to pluck and put into big straw baskets on their backs. Two leaves and a bud, two leaves and a bud, Prem teaches us. The tea shrubs are plucked 32-36 times a year, six or seven days a week. Heavy cropping takes place in the monsoon season, and – even when tea isn’t being produced in the December-February winter months — vital pruning is done then. A tea bush requires different types of pruning every third or fourth year. This is a very exacting horticultural science, and farmers need to be certain that the bushes are neither under nor over plucked. Other vital cultivating factors in the tea “saga” include sanitation, irrigation and fertilization.
Observing the workers, we quickly surmised that they make this hike up and down at least six days a week. And we noticed that they didn’t even use walking sticks while hauling those baskets of tea leaves – two leaves and a bud, two leaves and a bud – to the processing center.
We toured several more Equal Exchange-supported tea farms and met many co-op worker-owners. At one village, there was this gigantic black pig – it looked more like a boar to me. Prem grinned when he noticed me distancing myself from the grazing beast and asked, “You know what we call that thing, Jack?” I thought I was about to learn how to say pig in Hindi, but Prem said, “Ham!” Always dapper and really humorous, Prem commanded great respect wherever he escorted our team. We came to regard our eloquent and well-informed host/guide as the mayor of all he surveys!
Today, the people managing and working the tea farms we visited are literally and proudly “planting our own destiny” with a highly perishable product for an extremely challenging global market. But these Indian laborers are toiling co-operatively — with benefits, shared profits, retirement funds and goals to advance their farms with improved productivity as well as different crops (like ginger, turmeric, organic honey). With Darjeeling tea’s renown as the champagne of all teas, the 70,000 people in the industry here are hopeful for their future and grateful for the support of Equal Exchange, TPI, and partners like my church and UMCOR, the United Methodist Committee on Relief.
After a week of sipping Darjeeling tea right where the source of the brew was planted, nourished, harvested, withered, processed, inspected, taste-tested, graded, packaged and exported, I doubt that I will ever take a cup of tea for granted again, whether loose leaf or teabag. I have a new admiration and respect for all the human effort that is required prior to my sitting back and enjoying a sip. Also, I have a great, enhanced admiration and respect for Equal Exchange and the organization’s commitment to small fair trade farms and farmers throughout our world!
* * * *
For the record, our band of travelers, besides leader Deepak Khandelwal, also included (from Equal Exchange): Scott Patterson, Midwest sales manager; Cara Ross, natural foods sales manager; and Emma Van Pelt, freelance videographer and a barista in the Equal Exchange Café. The rest of our party: Linda Dickenson Elliott, who spearheads the Presbyterian Coffee Project in Charleston, WV; Joanne Grisanti, merchandising manager of River Valley Market, a co-op in Northampton, NY; and Joann Tomasulo, marketing/owner services manager of the Lexington Cooperative Market in Buffalo, NY.

L to R: Joanne Grisanti, Linda Elliott, Jack, Joann Tumasulo, Emma Van Pelt, Cara Ross, Scott Patterson and Deepak Khandelwal
Also for the record: the “What are you looking at?” routine is from an episode of “I’ll Fly Away” starring Sam Waterston and Regina Taylor (NBC-TV, 1991-93).
And if you’re wondering whether you’re a rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog or pig in Chinese astrology, go to www.Chinesezodiac.com.
Recommended sites: www.equalexchange.org
www.umcor.org
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_trade











